Straight Razor Shaving: A Definitive Guide

First, there was fire. Then, there was the straight razor. The practice of straight razor shaving has been around since the dawn of human civilization. Nowadays, disposable shavers are the most prevalent form of shaving. But straight razor shaving is making a comeback. 

Nothing comes close to the precision and accuracy of a straight razor shave (pun intended).  This guide will provide you with everything you need to know to shave with a straight razor and achieve the cleanest shave possible.

The History of Straight Razors

The earliest forms of straight razor shaving can be traced all the way back to ancient Egypt. Razor blades made from bronze, gold, and copper have been found dating all the way back to 1492 B.C. Some records indicate that they could date as far back as the 4th millennium B.C. 

The first modern straight razor, also known as an open or cut-throat razor, was created in 1680 in Sheffield, England. The razor was made out of a steel edge, creating a much smoother shave than its rudimentary predecessors. The high-quality steel production techniques of Sheffield led to the crafting of more durable and efficient straight razors.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, straight razor shaving gained immense popularity and became the standard for facial grooming. It also served as a mark of sophistication, often crafted with elaborate handles made of materials like ivory, tortoiseshell, or fine wood. Professional barber shops became prevalent during this period, and the straight razor was a highly sought-after service. 

In the 1800s, the safety razor was invented. As a result, straight razors declined rapidly in use.   This decline only increased into the 20th century when disposable blades were introduced. These new alternatives to straight razing promised a quicker and safer shaving experience, quickly overtaking straight razors as the most popular form of shaving. 

However, there has been a resurgence in the use of straight razors in the 21st century and has witnessed a resurgence in the use of straight razors. Many men are rediscovering the benefits of straight razor shaving, as well as the satisfying, age-old experience that it brings. The straight razor has come full circle, re-establishing its position as a tool that offers a precise and luxurious shaving experience.

The Benefits of Straight Razor Shaving

In addition to giving you a smooth, clean shave, straight razors provide a host of benefits, not only for the user but also for the community. Let’s take a look at some of the reasons why you should be using a straight razor. 

Affordability 

Straight razors typically have a higher initial cost,  but in the long term, you’ll be saving lots of money. Unlike disposable razors and cartridges, which require frequent replacement at a fixed cost, a well-maintained straight razor can last a lifetime. The long-term financial advantages that come with owning a straight razor outweigh the higher short-term costs. 

Environmentally Friendly

It is estimated that 2 billion disposable razors are dumped into landfills each year in the U.S. alone. To make matters worse, the plastic from disposable blades and cartridges won’t biodegrade for over 100 years, creating a massive impact on the environment. On the other hand, straight razors can last for many years, making them a much more sustainable choice that can significantly diminish waste. 

A Higher-Quality Shave

While this benefit may seem subjective to some, there’s a reason why your local barber chooses to use straight razors. Straight razor shaving offers superb precision, allowing for an extremely close shave that minimizes skin irritation. The single, sharp blade smoothly cuts facial hair without pulling or tugging, reducing the likelihood of ingrown hairs and razor bumps. 

Preparing for the Shave

Preparation is half the battle when it comes to straight razor shaving. The better prepared you are, the smoother your shave will be, minimizing the risk of irritation or nicks. 

The Essential Supplies

First, you’ll need to gather all the tools necessary to make straight razor shaving as fun and safe as possible. Here’s what you’ll need:

• The Razor Blade: Don’t skimp on your razor, invest in a high-quality carbon steel or stainless steel razor that will stay sharp and last for years to come. 
• Leather Strop: Crucial for maintaining the sharpness of your straight razor, a leather strop helps align the edge of the blade and removes any micro-burrs that could blunt the blade to keep the blade sharp and extend its lifespan. 
• Shaving Brush: The bristles from the brush, often made of badger, boar, or synthetic fibers, help lift facial hair and exfoliate the skin, preparing it for a closer shave while providing a layer of cushion and glide for the razor.
• Shaving Cream (or Shaving Soap): While it is possible to use regular soap for shaving, specialized shaving creams or soaps are highly recommended to improve the quality of the shave, minimize irritation, and razor burn, and moisturize the face.

Skin Preparation

Start by washing your face with warm water to remove any dirt or oils. This also acts to soften your facial hair. Some people like to use a pre-shave oil, which moisturizes the skin and provides an additional layer of lubrication. Shaving oils can be particularly helpful for those with sensitive skin or coarse facial hair.

Heating the Blade

While not strictly necessary, some straight razor shaving enthusiasts like to warm up the blade by rinsing it under hot water. This can make the razor glide more effortlessly across the skin, making the experience even smoother. 

Lathering Up

Take your shaving brush and wet it with warm water. Then, using the shaving brush, apply your choice of shaving cream or soap in a circular motion on your face to create a rich, thick layer. Applying shaving cream or soap will lift your facial hairs, giving you a closer shave, and will prevent razor burns.

Strop the Blade

Before you start shaving, sharpen your razor blade on a leather strop to get rid of any dullness that might have accumulated. Proper stropping aligns the edge of the blade, preventing any unwanted pulling or tugging.

An important note, instead of sharpening the blade, professional barber shops like Rudy’s Grooming provide every client with a brand-new straight razor blade, upholding the highest standards in accordance with health department rules.

How to Use a Straight Razor

Shaving with a straight razor is an art form that demands skill, precision, and mindfulness. Here’s a guide on how to wield this classic tool for an impeccable shave.

How to Hold a Straight Razor

Holding the razor is important for having better control and ensuring your own safety. Hold the blade with your dominant hand, placing your thumb on the side of the blade with your index, middle, and ring finger on the back of the blade. Your little finger should rest on the tang, the part of the straight razor that extends out at the bottom of the blade.

Pulling the Skin

When skin is stretched, it gives a closer and safer shave. Use your non-dominant hand to pull the skin tight in the area where you're shaving. This makes it easier for the blade to glide smoothly without causing irritation or injury.

Start Shaving

Keep the blade angle at about 30 degrees to your face to optimize cutting efficiency and minimize skin irritation. Begin with the easier, less sensitive areas like the side of your face before moving onto more tricky spots like the chin and upper lip. Starting slow and easy allows you to get a feel for the razor before tackling more challenging areas. 

A Cut Above

As you’ve seen, straight razor shaving is not just about getting rid of facial hair. It’s a lifestyle. From Ancient Egypt to modern day, people have been using straight razors for millennia to get the closest, cleanest shave possible. 

So go ahead, pick up that straight razor, and join the club that’s been around for centuries. It’s not just a thing of the past, it’s here to stay, and it’s helping save your wallet and the environment in the process. 

If you’d like a professional barber to give you a nice, clean straight razor shave, visit Rudy’s Grooming Club in Darien, CT. 

Visit us in Darien, CT, and let's make your hair aspirations a reality.